JIT JAAA GAAAAAA!

Wheee!

Good part first!

Jet Jaguar, all done!

It’s called Jet Jaguar. Thanks, R!

Matte bosses

I went over these cable stops with Scotchbrite (distinct from Scotchlite, the tape) to make them matte. I also brushed the knobs.

The barcons and brake levers.

It took me forever to confirm that you can do this. You can. That’s a Tektro “cyclocross” inline lever with a bar-end shifter.

Proof

It’s not your project unless you bust your thumbnail!

I said a hip, a hop, a hip hip hippy dippy

Wrapper’s paradise.

Running the shifter cable

Finally putting on the shifter.

I took it out for a spin today. I’m very happy about it. It’s got a pretty aero position, which is just what I want, I think. It’s pretty short and hoppy. The brakes were a litty rubby, but things are pretty much ironed out now. Nine speeds on a single ring is a bit much (and noisy in the lowest gear), but it works niclely anyway. It’s geard pretty high, but I really like the ass-hauling.

(Part 1, Part 2)

Sleek and Frightful

OK, let’s see if I’m getting my blog fixed here with a project update.

I’ve been working on this bike for about a month since I found the frame. It came from the basement of Northampton Bikes and they sold it to me for a song, seeing that it was going to a good home. Now, I’ve wanted one of these frames since I was a teenager and I used to ride the MS150 bike ride (which looks to be a much larger event now than it was in 1988 or whatever.). So when I found this frame, I knew this was a golden opportunity. It’s a 1992 r900 with downtube shifters (so quaint!) and short but practical geometry.

I started buying parts for it when I got the frame. I’ve been getting used stuff and trawling Ebay for parts, but it’s still coming in pretty spendy. The project means a lot to me, though, so I’m willing to do what I need to do.

Now I’m going to try my newly upgraded blog’s gallery function. Let’s see if it works! Pics and details follow the fold.

Continue reading “Sleek and Frightful”

“Good morning” said the fox.

A couple of days ago, I posted that I was approaching the finish line on building my new bike and asked around for a name. Thanks to Philip, meet Grey Fox!

DSCN5297.jpg

(Click the images to zoom) Some features to note: The gear rati0 is 46:12. No front derailleur. Eight speeds on the rear and a big old school friction thumb shifter distorted and Dremeled into working on road bars. The brakes are time trial/triathalon levers and Tektro Oryx cantilevers. The back wheel is a Mavic  laced onto a generic hub. The front is a DT Swiss laced onto a cheap Shimano hub. The frame is a Trek 7300 with frankly insufficient paint to have any real durability.

Right now, it’s got a top gear of a paltry 97.3 gear inches.I haven’t yet switched the chainring in from the Iron Monkey, which will give it a top gear of 121.4 gear inches. That is, the wheel will go 1/3 further around for each time I pedal. The Yellowjacket’s top gear is 108. That is, it should haul ass.

DSCN5302.jpg

The shifter and right brake lever. Note the clever “TAPE OVER IT” technique. Those tires were a trash find, by the way.

DSCN5304.jpg

The powertrain. I like those cranks and I can not lie. But they don’t fit a big chainring. So they’re going to move over to the Iron Monkey and the Grey Fox will get the big ring and old Dura Ace cranks. The Tektro Oryx brakes are nearly as good as V brakes. Pretty impressive. You may also note the seat clamp from the Iron Monkey. I gotta get a permanent solution for the Grey Fox.

Stripping At Thanksgiving

stripWarning.jpg

EDIT: Hey, Makeketeers, I just finished the bike this eve! Check out this post to see the final product!

Like a lot of Americans, I was with my family over the last weekend celebrating Thanksgiving. Unlike most Americans, I’d come not just to hang with family, but to get some workshop time. My dad’s shop is a wonderful thing and he’s got some tools that I just can’t approximate. I’ve been working on a bike for a while now, but I wanted a hood to paint in because the weather’s gotten foul, and then there were a couple of parts that needed more force than I’m able to generate with the tools I’ve got. So I brought it along! I also had a homemade bike stand I’d made out of steel pipe and a clamp that needed delrin jaws and Dad had offered some stock and the use of his milling machine to make them. I could have made them with a band saw and drill press, but I lack a band saw and he had them already cut for another purpose.

buildClamp.jpg

The clamp clamping while the stand stands

So I got to work on the bike itself. I had to strip the paint, first using methylene chloride (nassty chemilcalses that it is), then switching to other stuff because I kept getting distracted and the stuff dried up before I could get all the paint off properly.

stribBB.jpg

An out-of-focus picture of the methylene chloride attacking the enamel.

stripClose.jpg

It took the ink right off the decals, but unfortunately left the decal substrate there. Invisibly. That had me stumped for a while.

stripFrame.jpg

This took me all afternoon, half a can of methylene chloride, and a surprisingly small amount of MEK. I don’t know if the MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) would have worked first. The stuff sure seems less nasty than the methlylene chloride, though. And as far as I know, it doesn’t REDUCE THE BLOOD’S OXYGEN CARRYING CAPACITY.

In any event, there was a fair amount of scraping and even some sanding at the end. Had I been on the ball a little more and gotten to use the methylene chloride at a stretch instead of having to run off and do family stuff, all the paint would have just flopped off.

paintOrangeLayer.jpg

That orange is an undercoat for masking purposes. The seat tube was an aborted idea.

paintMask.jpg

The top tube masked with electrical tape. See where that tape overlaps? That’s a little problem. Thinner tape cut at the edge would have been a good idea. No big deal, fortunately.

paintGrey.jpg

… then I painted the whole thing “Machine Grey”. I really like this color.

paintUnmask.jpg

Then I removed the mask. Rock. Yeah, I painted a lot of orange, then wanted just a little. I tried a bunch of patterns before I came up with this one.

paintMaskClose.jpg

See? Kinda neat. The light was low, but the camera did an admirable job.

buildFull.jpg

So I threw together a bunch of the parts, and it starts to look like a bike! These are the wheels I built in a previous post, as well. Most of the parts, including the frame (from a Trek 7300) were from various folks on Ebay. As always, caveat emptor: the bottom bracked turns out to be cross-threaded, so I have to have it retapped tomorrow at Full Circle.

I think the cranks are gonna come off the Iron Monkey, which will then get my brother’s old cranks and chainwheel. I want the 53:12 ratio! I wanna haul ass! The Iron Monkey will probably be mostly ridden by guests (once I fix it up with a new rear wheel) who probably won’t appreciate a gear you can only be in for 5 minutes of the ride anyway.

And that brings me to a serious question: what should I name this bike? I called it Mithrandir over on Velospace for need of a name on the spot, but it doesn’t make me happy. Too nerdly. I’m happy to take recommendations, even ridiculous ones that I’ll reject out of hand because they’ll make me laugh.

Wheel in the Sky Keeps on Burnin’

Building a Wheel

There are a few things left on a bike that I’m kind of afraid of. Off the top of my head, these are headsets, unsealed bottom brackets, and wheel building and truing.

No, wait, cross off the wheel building and truing parts.

A very generous friend gave me a gift of project budget, so I decided this was my big chance to conquer that last fear there. I got myself a Spin Doctor Truing Stand II, a set of spoke wrenches, and a dishing tool. Then the challenge was to get parts.

Building wheels is not a cost-effective way to get wheels normally. Decent spokes cost about a buck apiece and modern wheels have between 24 and 36 of them. Hubs generally go for $20 and  up (and I mean up) and rims start at $30 and go up equally amazingly. Tires start at around $15 and tubes around $7. So that’s about $100 for a minimally acceptable wheel. You can get them prebuilt for $50.

But if you apply your scavenging skills, things might come out differently. I went down to Laughing Dog and asked if they have any straight but used rims. The guy said, “Nnnn…yeah!” and handed me a DT Swiss RR 1.1 rim. It has a little piece of metal in it that rattles around, so they can’t sell it. The dude gave it to me. They’re $70 new. Then, it turns out Nashbar has a sale going on with old Specialized hubs for $6. $6! So I got one and paid $9 for shipping. I’d have gotten two if I foresaw making two front wheels in the near future. Spokes are always in demand, so no deals on that, but Northampton Bike stocks lots of spokes, so I got 36 (that’s 4 extra, in case I fucked something up). And the Pedal People were dumping a bunch of stuff, so I picked up some appropriate and speedy tires and a tube fer nuthin’.

 

So I got down to it yesterday afternoon. This is what I made.

Whole built wheel

The complete wheel. I love the way aero rims look. I totally lucked out with that find.

 

Rim

See? Pretty cool! I’d really like to get some Deep Vs, but that will take more scrounging.

 

 The hub, all laced up.

 The whole hub. If you know about these things and see a mistake, let me know!

 

The bike is, so far, a Trek 7300 frame from Ebay that I got for $40 shipped, a bottom bracket from a bike that had been sitting on a rack for 6 years, this wheel, any of several cranksets I’ve got, a seat post, an assemblage of derailleur parts that I think equal a derailleur, some brake levers, some brakes, and these bars:

 The Badassest bars in the Universe

If you’re wondering if these are the badassest bars in the Universe, the answer is yes.

 

So, I still need everything for the back wheel (ideally, a 5-speed casette), shifters, a saddle, another tube, a chain an appropriate chain wheel, a fork, and a headset. Scroungemonkey go!

The Iron Monkey Lives!

The Iron Monkey logo

The bike’s done! Its name is the Iron Monkey, as it’s made of steel. Sadly, I can’t find th’damn camera, so I can’t show you. [Edit: found it!]

This afternoon, I took Judd’s advice and buried myself in a project to keep from obsessing about a personal calamity. I got a seat post that fit (the previous owner of this bike must have been a chimpanzee. Seriously, two foot legs and three foot arms!) and swapped out the derailleur for one that was less ugly. See, the old Campy was beautiful, but it really couldn’t handle more than 5 sprockets. So I put on the old one from the Novara, the previous incarnation of this frame. But that derailleur had been badly abused. (In Bret’s words, someone had touched it in the bathing suit area) I thought, “Oh, that’s a weird direction for a derailleur to point! But obviously it’s OK…” and it wasn’t. It was bad. So bad. So I took it apart, fixed it (!) then put it on the bike, only to discover that it still wasn’t working. It skipped terribly, particularly in the higher gears.

I had an old Sun Tour from my sister-in-law’s old 10 speed, though, so I decided to give that a shot. What would have been an hour of swearing a few weeks ago turned into 15 minutes of easy work, though, and I got it on. I was pretty pleased with myself.

And it still skipped.

“Motherfuck?” I asked it politely, and asked the Internet. Sheldon said that it was either the B-adjustment (now I know what that is!) or a stiff link. Since I was confident there were no stiff links, I adjusted the B-adjuster screw and discovered that I could now get into all 7 gears! Triumph! But it still skipped.

“Motherfuck,” I said more firmly, hoping that would fix it. It did not.

So I checked for stiff links and there was one and I fixed it.

Rassafrassin’ humbletyhurph.

The brakes are sub-awesome, but a little shaving will solve what an apparent accident in the distant past of the frame has wrought.

It’s light (22 pounds!), it looks neat, and I made it myself! Hooray! The image at the top is the logo I made for it. The plan is to get some water slide decal material and brand it. Victory!

(Total cost on this project: about $125. I got impatient at the end and threw some money at the bike. I probably could have kept it to $100 if I’d been willing to find the brakes I needed.)

The Bike with No Name

My two other bikes are the Blackbird (AKA the Monster, a carbon mountain bike build by my friend Daniel) and the Yellowjacket (my Trek 6500 road/city/”urban assault vehicle”). This one’s going to need a name soon, cuz it’s almost done!

I needed some additional parts as of the last installment. Let’s see what we’ve got.

Handlebars
A pair of handlbars! The old aluminum ones were really uncomfortable. These were $15 used.

Chainwheel/crank

A Dura-Ace chainwheel and crank! These were originally from a $400 set and were in a pile of parts at Northampton Bicycle.

I asked if they had a used crank/chainwheel around that I could use, and they said, “no,” and I said, “What about that one?” And they said, “I don’t know whose that is,” and one of the guys said, “That’s your friend’s. He cracked the left one and didn’t want the cranks to not match,” and the guy said, “Oh, then, $10?” And I said, “Awesome.”

The bolts have been removed because I’m not going to have a front derailleur, so it’ll only have one chain wheel. The nuts, which are a little collar that goes through the space between the chain wheels are too long to work, though, and I hadn’t come up with a solution yet at the time of this picture. There’s a pic of my solution a little further down.

Shifter woes
This turned out to be an unexpected problem: I wanted to use bar-end shifters, but they’re long (longer than they have to be, I think, but hard to modify in that respect), and they have to work within the curve of the bar. I had to find a solution to this for the new bars.

The shifter solution

… and this is the eventual solution! I took after it with a file and just kept shaving off aluminum until it fit.

The end of the bar wound up being at a 15° angle or so. Now that I look at this again, I might take off another big chunk of bar so the shifter body itself becomes the end of the bar, since it sticks out kind of far right now.

Also note the brake levers. $3 for a set of four on Ebay. Hooray!

Derailleur

This is one of the pieces of my dad’s old bike. Everyone loves that bike, but it had too many problems.

My brother has taken the frame, though, and I’ve got the derailleur and a couple of other parts. We’re doing cool stuff with it. Far from being buried behind the barn, it’s being reincarnated as several newer bikes! The spring on the derailleur cable there is an idea taken from his bike, too. It used springs there, but they’re a little too shiny (and one of them’s fucked up) so I ordered some springs from McMaster-Carr and have used them here in a couple of places. I’m pretty sure they can’t be used for brake lines, though; I think they’ll take up slack by straightening, rather than stopping the bike. I’m gonna try one anyway and see if it works.

 

Drive train

Here’s the drive train in place. Note the bolted chain wheel.

I have some concerns about the long-term viability of that derailleur, unfortunately. Even though it’s a beautiful piece of machinery, it’s not very advanced. It’s built for a 5-speed cluster, max, and that’s a 6 on there. I have a 5-speed cluster, but I’d need to build a wheel around it, which I’ve never done before. So for the time being, it’s a 5-speed with an extra sprocket.

There’s also the issue of the gear ratio. I wanted a big chain wheel on there so I could get ~5:1 gear ratio with an 11-tooth sprocket on the back. The Yellowjacket as a 4:1 and I run out of gears going downhill (and there are a lot of hills here). But this cluster has a 13-tooth, which gives a ratio of 4.07:1. I was looking for a 20% increase in speed and got a 1.7% increase. Pretty fucking weak. So I gotta learn how to build wheels and I gotta keep my eyes open for high speed clusters in the garbage.

Chainwheel/crank solution

This is how I got the chainwheel bolted in: with the power of washers! If I’d been really doing what I should, I’d have cut them down to fit; right now, they rest at an angle. Oh, well!

The bike, so far.
And here she is, with everything but brakes (which, thanks to Ebay, should show up any day).

The tires are Bontrager Road Warriors. They’re 26″ (mountain bike sized) road slicks. They’re very smooth; you can really feel the difference between even a road treaded tire and these. They’re no good in sand or dirt, but as long as you’re on a reasonably clean road, they’re spectacular. The saddle was $15 at the bike shop. I think most bike shops will have saddles that people have swapped out.

Bike, oblique

A little bigger and up-closer.

All that remains is brake installation (C’mon USPS!) and a general up-tightening, wrapping the bars, finding some bolts to fill the water bottle cage mounts, and it’s good to ride! Then the challenge will be not bolting on a bunch of stuff. I mean, if I get a flat on this bike, I’m pretty fucked, since I don’t want to put a saddle bag or pump on, never mind lights or water bottles. I’ll probably stuff a tube under the saddle if it’ll fit, but I’ll have to carry tire levers and a pump in my backpack or something. Since this bike is made for hopping around the city for errands and stuff, I’ll probably be carrying it anyway. I’ll be doing a little detailing with gaffer’s tape, too, on the chain stays, both to add a little black back there and to keep the chain from dinging the clear coat and making rust.

Almost done!

Building a Bike from Bits, part 2

Returning from Gen Con means that I get to start working on bikes again!

So, you may remember that about a month ago, I took apart some junker bikes in the hopes that I’d be able to reassemble them with minimal hassle into a single, functioning bike. Well, things are proceeding!

Blue frame
This is the frame I’m using right now, the Novara MTB frame from many moons ago. I’ve taken after it with a steel brush a little to take off the major rust. I’m also starting at it with a can of methylene chloride.

dscn4399.JPG
This is what methylene chloride does to paint when things are working well. Unfortunately, not only did it not want to attack most of the primer on the frame, but it was also dissolving my nitrile gloves that were supposed to protect me. The vapors were burning my hand through the glove. Bad scene.

dscn4404.JPG
My Lovely Lady decided to have at it with the steel brush. She got the seat stays pretty shiny!

dscn4413.JPG
95% of the pait has been removed here, no thanks to the methylene chloride. Sandpaper did an awesome job where nassty chemicalses failed me.

dscn4415.JPG
It’s really hard to get paint out of these crevices. It’s right there! Why can’t I reach it? This is why sand blasting is so great.

dscn4416.JPG
The frame, all cleaned up. I really like the sanded finish. At one point, I had plans for a blue/black paint scheme, but the raw steel is so cool, I just shot it with clear lacquer. I missed a couple of spots and had to resand and go back over it, but I really like the way it looks.

dscn4420.JPG
I didn’t want to go through all that again, though, so the fork got matte black. I was originally going to do the polished metal/matte black on a different bike, but now I’m all excited that this one could actually work out, so I’m at least trying out the scheme here. At least I’ll learn a thing or two about how to make it look good.

dscn4425.JPG
Remember how I was complaining about the awful stem that had come on this bike? Not only was it the one-bolt, redo-your-handlebars-anytime-you-change-something variety, but it’s like 10″ long. This odd stem is about 5″ and is correct. If I need to, I can raise it about an inch. It was a happy find. I went to the bike shop, asked if they had any threaded, two-bolt stems, and this is what they came up with out of the back. It was originally polished aluminum, but I sprayed it with the same matte black I did the fork with, leaving the polished front for contrast.

dscn4424.JPG
… and that’s the frame with the flip-chopped bullhorns I made out of the original bars. I cut them with a pipe cutter. It was easy. They’re not going to be great bars — I can tell already — but since I got a two-bolt stem, it won’t be a big deal to change them if I find a better pair in the trash. Please ignore that hideous saddle. Since this bike is liable to be used by guests, I have to get a better one. I have too much respect for the groins of my guests to leave that one on there.

dscn4429.JPG
Here it is with some wheels on it! It’s going to get some road slicks and, ideally, a single speed chainwheel. That back wheel there is a 6-speed, which is very practical. The front wheel is from the Fiesta De Crap red bike, which oddly I have on there because I think it looks better. The hub is matte black and the rim
is a more geometric shape than the rear one from the Novara. But the back one’s got the gears… so I might wind up swapping casettes if they’re compatible.

So, yeah. The only parts missing now are:

  • parts that make it go
  • parts that make it stop

I’ve got Ebay looking for some decent cantilever brakes so I can use the road levers I’ve got, since the guy at Laughing Dog Bikes (nice website there, guys) explained how to make them not suck. So far, the bidding’s gotten up to $3.90! Hooray for obsolete parts! Laughing Dog is great, by the way. Website aside, they’re helpful, friendly, and excited about bikes. I also need a 1- or 2-chainwheel crankset and might ask around for such a thing at the shops. The wheels are both quite messy. They’re sloppy and rusty, but it’s nothing some grease, a little tightning, and some scrubbing won’t fix. I’m half-hoping that the casettes are incompatible so I get to build my first wheel. On the other hand, since I lack the tools to do it properly, maybe I should put that off for a while.